THE
THAI WAY - MY VERY OWN ‘EAT, PRAY, LOVE’ ADVENTURE
-
Noyonika
Bhattacharya (India)
Abstract:
This travelogue captures the essence of
the author’s transformative journey to Thailand, where the confluence of
culture, faith, and culinary delight rejuvenated her. From the vibrant streets
of Bangkok, where ancient temples like Wat Traimit and Wat Benchamabophit stand
as monuments of artistic grandeur and spiritual depth, to the serene beaches of
Pattaya, each moment offered a rich tapestry of sights, sounds, and flavors.
Iconic landmarks, coupled with the timeless beauty of the ocean and the charm
of local cuisine—especially the author's enduring love for shrimp—became
symbols of personal reflection. The essay delves into Thailand's cultural
resilience, the blend of tradition and contemporary, and the warmth of its
people. Whether dining on Phad Thai or witnessing enthralling dances, the
journey entailed not just a feast for the senses but also an exploration of a
vibrant nation that preserves its heritage while embracing modernity. Through
humor, adventure, and introspection, the essay showcases how Thailand became a
personal "Eat, Pray, Love" experience for the author. All photographs
have been clicked by the author.
Keywords:
Thailand, culture, faith, flavours, personal reflection, cultural resilience.
The wind emanating from the ocean has a
surreal way of soothing one’s mind. Tranquillity, they say – a state of
unadulterated peace. That’s exactly what I experienced amidst the deep blue sea
in Pattaya. The highlight of my year was a rejuvenating trip to Thailand. I was
enthralled by the culture and pristine beauty of this inimitable Southeast
Asian nation. Here’s a glimpse of my week in an ancient land of faith and
prosperity.
I arrived at the Suvarnabhumi
International Airport right when the golden rays of the setting Sun embraced
the green, futuristic landscape. Historically, wide swathes of Southeast Asia
including Thailand have been referred to as ‘Suvarnabhumi’ - the land of gold.1
As early as 2nd century BCE, the region was the hub of precious gems, spices,
metals, and of course, religion. Buddhist monks from India and China settled
here. To this day, Thailand remains a haven for faith, culture, and retail
therapy.
I strolled around Bangkok in the
evening to gauge the city’s pulse. The hustle and bustle of locals and tourists
never let the city sleep. Traffic is perpetually busy. Towering structures
glisten brilliantly. Corporate towers, residential skyscrapers, and luxury
outlets such as Hermes and Louis Vuitton are lit with the most dazzling gold
lights. The supermarkets were a haven for snacks, candies, cold cuts, pink
eggs, ramen, and all sorts of goodies. Khao San Road is a gastronomer’s
paradise, and has earned Bangkok the justifiable title of ‘Street Food Capital’
of Thailand. You can visit Thailand for all the lofty claims I’m making in this
essay. Or you can visit it just for the divinely delicious prawns prepared in
every nook and corner. For me, the prawns are paramount. I devoured some piping
hot, deep-fried prawns at a Khao San Road stall, along with Gai Pad Med Mamuang
(spicy cashew chicken) and Phad Thai (rice noodles). The best close to a tiring
but exhilarating first day!
The following morning, my first stop
was the famed Wat Traimit Buddhist temple in Bangkok. It houses a priceless
Buddha statue made of gold dating back to the 13th century.2 Fearing
British invasion in the 19th century, the statue was plastered with stucco and
coloured glass to rescue it from colonial predators of art. It remained secure
for 200 years. Thailand could never be colonised. Today, the Golden Buddha
shines in full glory, blessing us all with luck and compassion. The high temple
steps outside provide a picturesque view of the city. The traditionally
steep-sloping, brown roofs of houses foreground the bustling traffic. A modern
national capital hasn’t renounced its faith and traditional architecture.
[Figure
1: The golden spires of Wat Traimit seemingly merging with the clouds]
I was mesmerised by another grandiose
temple that day - the Wat Benchamabophit carved primarily in marble. The
architecture is ornate and splendid. Gold gables and finials define the
exterior. The ceilings are intricately embellished in red and gold. The mosaic
windows portray imageries from the life cycles of Gautama Buddha. Fragrant
jasmines adorn the temple gardens. Built in 1899 at royal behest, the temple
houses yet another magnificent gold statue of Buddha.
In the evening, I visited the Iconsiam
Mall in Bangkok. It is a vision of magnificent lights, art installations,
flora, and vivid colours. Festive lanterns and vibrant flags hang above an
indoor floating market. A stately sculpture of a Buddhist deity stands sentinel
over this modern space – Thao Wessuwan, the harbinger of wealth, prosperity,
and protection from evil spirits. His Hindu equivalent happens to be Kubera!
3 The malls of Bangkok, be it Terminal 21 or Iconsiam, are truly
exemplary for space utilisation and design.
Iconsiam is built on a riverfront and
offers cruise tickets. I spent a delightful evening on a cruise liner sailing
through the Chao Phraya river. The cruise lasted two hours and gave me a
glimpse of the golden city. Golden skyscrapers abound. The Wat Arun (The Temple
of Dawn) illuminated the West Bank of Chao Phraya River. The Rama VIII Bridge
beamed magnificently as it endured heavy traffic. The floating resto-bars
filled the air with music, chatter, and the smell of delicious food.
The next morning, I set off for
Pattaya. I arrived at the beach just when the setting sun made way for the
billowy, azure evening sky. As I waded through waves of the South China Sea, I
wondered about how they must carry millions of secrets, tragedies, yearnings
for a better life, and that catalyst of humanity named hope.
Numerous shacks and eateries bedecked
the seaside. The smell wafting from one of the kitchens there was so heavenly
that I decided to indulge myself. I gorged on sinfully delicious Phad Thai and
Spicy Prawns in Red Chilli Paste. As I walked to my hotel, I admired how the
streets of Pattaya were laden with shrines and sculptures of local deities. A
Buddhist Naga shrine, for instance, stood in the middle of a busy street. Many
shrines and sculptures of local deities were guarded by vigilant roosters.
The next day, I was off to a thrilling
start on a speedboat en route to Coral Island. The gushing waters and the salty
air splashed me with some adventure. The royal blue sea looked magnificent. The
quaint island came closer and closer. There was nothing much to do at Coral
Island except laze around on a beach lounge, unwind, and let ice cream balance
out the scorching Sun. Tourists engaged in adventure sports such as banana
boating and jet ski rides. As I strolled around to browse local shops and
cafes, I spotted gay, pink bougainvillea and roosters set in stone sculpture! A
lazy afternoon well spent.
As I returned to mainland Pattaya, I
was excited for the enthralling evening that lay ahead. I witnessed the Alcazar
Cabaret Show. Performed entirely by a transgender cast and crew, this musical
drama documents the history of Thailand. It also showcases dance genres from
around the world, including salsa, flamenco, and our very own Bollywood! The
artists were talented par excellence and deserved the thunderous applause they
received.
The nightlife in Pattaya is impeccable.
Live music bars, nightclubs, and dimly lit taverns aplenty. After clicking
photographs of the dazzling neon spectacles that constitute the streets of
Pattaya, I browsed the seaside for the perfect restaurant. And then I hit gold!
Romsai Brasserie is downright the prettiest eatery I’ve ever set foot in. The
floral decor was mesmerising and straight out of a fairy tale! The entire
restaurant was adorned with floral spectacles, traditional Victorian marble-top
coffee tables, cozy white lace curtains, and white furniture. The warm, floral
aesthetics complement the blend of traditional and bohemian elements in the
brasserie’s decor. But the brasserie wasn’t all pomp and no substance. The food
was sublimely delicious.
[Figure 2: Phad Thai noodles served at
Romsai Brasserie, Pattaya.]
My dinner comprised prawn crisps, Phad
Thai with prawns, chicken in red Thai curry, and peach iced tea to wash it all
down. The long, green stalks of lemongrass are the backbone of Thai cuisine.
Its essence is fragrant and soothing. My dining experience was further refined
by graceful, skilled dancers captivating us with their performance of the
traditional Lakhon dance – characterised by slow-paced choreography and
sophisticated yet vibrant gestures.
Finally, it was time to say goodbye to
the resplendent Suvarnabhumi. Even in the airport, traditional icons, symbols,
and sculptures stand out. Notably, the gold shrine housing the statue of Phra
Mae Thorani, the Earth Goddess in Thai Buddhist mythology. She is believed to
protect the people from natural disasters, and is a symbol of fertility and
abundance.4 As I looked over Bangkok for one last time from my plane
window, I reflected on this rejuvenating trip. It was so immensely fulfilling.
I was exposed to a culture that prioritises education, enterprise, and artistic
vision along with faith and preservation of heritage. A nation that is active
and vital, teeming with people who are kind, hardworking, and creative. The
Thai Way is thus to strive for a bright future while keeping one's heritage
alive. Moreover, every meal I had throughout my vacation was immaculately
prepared and presented. The land truly compels you to indulge repeatedly in
shrimp, rice, and lemongrass. I bid adieu on a note that might just convince
the gastronomer and spiritualist in you to visit the ancient land of faith,
flavours, and prosperity.
Notes
1.
Phanomvan, Phacharaphorn. “Lost in literature: the political
and religious consequences of Suvarnabhumi [Part II].” New Mandala, 26 October 2018, https://www.newmandala.org/lost-in-literature-the-political-and-religious-consiquences-of-suvarnabhumi-part-ii/.
Accessed 14 September 2024.
2.
Datta, Rangan. “Wat Traimit and the amazing tale of the
world's largest gold Buddha.” Telegraph
India, 25 January 2023, https://www.telegraphindia.com/my-kolkata/places/wat-traimit-and-the-amazing-tale-of-the-worlds-largest-gold-buddha-statue-in-bangkok/cid/1912064.
Accessed 15th September 2024.
3.
Linrothe, Rob. Ruthless
Compassion: Wrathful Deities in Early Indo-Tibetan Esoteric Buddhist Art.
Boston, Shambhala Publications, 1999.
4.
Guthrie, Elizabeth. A
Study of the History and Cult of the Buddhist Earth Deity in Mainland Southeast
Asia. University of Canterbury, 2004.
Bibliography
- Datta, Rangan. “Wat Traimit and
the amazing tale of the world's largest gold Buddha.” Telegraph India, 25 January 2023,
https://www.telegraphindia.com/my-kolkata/places/wat-traimit-and-the-amazing-tale-of-the-worlds-largest-gold-buddha-statue-in-bangkok/cid/1912064.
Accessed 15th September 2024.
- Guthrie, Elizabeth. A Study of the History and Cult of the
Buddhist Earth Deity in Mainland Southeast Asia. University of
Canterbury, 2004.
- Linrothe,
Rob. Ruthless Compassion: Wrathful
Deities in Early Indo-Tibetan Esoteric Buddhist Art. Boston, Shambhala
Publications, 1999.
- Phanomvan,
Phacharaphorn. “Lost in literature: the political and religious
consequences of Suvarnabhumi [Part II].” New Mandala, 26 October 2018,
https://www.newmandala.org/lost-in-literature-the-political-and-religious-consiquences-of-suvarnabhumi-part-ii/.
Accessed 14 September 2024.
****
